As someone who has collected jewelry made by Gustave Sherman for many years, I have seen my share of his beautiful creations. I have collected everything from the most basic glittering rhinestone earrings all the way up to the most sought after rigid cuff bracelets. Throughout my collecting, I have seen several different styles of his Mark and other pieces that I know without a doubt are made by Sherman even though there is no stamp. Pieces that are so detailed in their creation and color combinations and a perfect match to "Signed" pieces. One set that comes to mind is a magnificent parure featuring deep pink crystal drops. The necklace was dripping in sparkling rhinestones done in the most elaborate pattern and the Sherman signature was clearly displayed on the clasp. The exact matching bracelet with these same pink drops and elaborate colors and pattern had no permanent signature. Anyone inspecting the pieces would know they were a match. They were still together 40 years later in their elaborate Sherman case. Had they been separated somewhere along the way, proving the bracelet was made by Sherman would have been difficult.
Then the other day I was speaking with a man who was in the process of clearing out old inventory from a small family run jewelry store. While cleaning out the stock room, he uncovered several uncirculated Sherman pieces still in their original packaging and cases. Pieces that had not been sold and then when the front display cases were changed or updated, were put away and forgotten. Although some had the Sherman stamp clearly embossed on the piece itself, many others had only the Sherman hang tag and original case to prove who had created them. He was in the process of selling them off but we collectors are fussy when it comes to that Sherman signature. He was selling the unsigned pieces for much less than the signed ones. I personally would rather pay more for a piece that is permanently stamped. For me, the hang tag and case isn't enough. It's too easy for tags to get lost or misplaced, cases to get damaged and discarded and then the piece which is without a doubt Sherman, loses its identifying mark.
So here's what I think when it comes to "Signed" versus "Unsigned" Sherman jewelry. I personally believe there is a vast number of "Unsigned" Sherman pieces. Some collectors and books would disagree but I have to go with my experience as a collector and common sense. I truly believe that if Gustave Sherman had known how expensive and collectible his jewelry would become while they were being manufactured during the 1940's, 50's and 60's, he would have made certain that each and every piece was permanently stamped. But how could he have known a rigid cuff bracelet that sold for $50 back in 1960 would sell for several thousands in 2011? He couldn't. How could he have possibly known that the same piece or set would be sold over and over after that initial sale and need to be positively identified each and every time? He couldn't which is why the hang tag would have been enough to identify it for the one and only time he thought it would be sold.
When it comes to Sherman Jewelry, collectors have been debating the "Signed" versus "Unsigned" for years. And although I believe many of my Unsigned pieces are in fact Sherman creations, I still favor those with the permanent stamp!
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